SIDELING HILL NATURAL AREA WALK

Sideling Hill Creek begins on mountain slopes in southcentral Pennsylvania, then meanders through narrow agricultural valleys and below steep parallel ridges of Pennsylvania and Maryland before joining the Potomac River, 80 miles northwest of Washington, D.C. Biologists consider Sideling Hill Creek an outstanding natural resource, rich in rare plants and animals, and containing diverse habitats.

Throughout its 25.0-mile serpentine course, Sideling Hill Creek presents constantly changing habitat mosaics. Every bend reveals distinct landscapes that support different forms of life. At many points along the Creek, undercutting by the stream over thousands of years has exposed unique shale outcrops, sustaining plant species uncommon to western Pennsylvania. Sideling Hill Creek is one of the most pristine, healthy streams in central Appalachia. Relatively free of pollution and development, the watershed and stream support several species of special concern.

DISTANCE: 75.0 miles round trip from the Bedford Interchange

TOPO MAPS: Artemas (MD), Bellegrove (MD), Beans Cove (PA), Chaneysville (PA)

DIRECTIONS: From Pittsburgh, follow the Pa. Turnpike to exit 11 (Bedford). After exiting the toll area, go south on Business 220. Go a short distance, then left again onto Rt. 220/30 toward Cumberland and go 2.0 miles to an interchange with U.S. Rt. 30. Take U.S. Rt. 30 east toward Everett, Pa. At the Everett exit, take Business Rt. 30. In a short distance, watch for Rt. 26 south, which is the second traffic light in the town of Everett. At the second light, make a right hand turn and follow Rt. 26 south toward Clearville, Pa. Be careful in Clearville where Rt. 26 bears to the right. Continue straight on the hard surface road for 0.6 mile to a "Y" and bear right toward Purcell. Just after the "Y" you will have entered the upper watershed of Sideling Hill Creek. (The remainder of the directions are incorporated in the text. )

One of the first attributes noticed about this region is that it is relatively dry, and the plant communities are indicative of the sparse moisture. As you drive the road south of Clearville on the way to Purcell, notice the abundance of white and Virginia pine woods. These conifers, mixed with white and chestnut oak, are more common in southern portions of central Pennsylvania, and are the typical natural forest for this region. The identifying characteristics of the two conifers are easily seen. White pine has needles in bundles of five, Pennsylvania's only pine with five needles. Virginia pine is a two-needled pine with cones which persist for several years. It has sharply pointed additions at the end of the cone scales.

For the next 11.0 miles, the road follows the valley of the west branch of Sideling Hill Creek. Just beyond the village of Purcell in the southern end of that valley, the east and west branches of Sideling Hill Creek converge. Upstream, these two branches meander quietly through broad gentle farm valleys; beyond, the creek becomes a sizable stream and cuts into the west flank of Town Hill, a long narrow ridge typical of this region. Continue southwest from Purcell on the blacktop road. About 1.5 miles beyond, you will rejoin Rt. 26. Follow this to the top of a hill and a left hand turn onto Silver Mills Road at a cemetery and across from the Fairview Church. Follow Silver Mills Road, a paved, windy course for several miles until it finally drops into the bottom of the valley and crosses a bridge over the main stem of Sideling Hill Creek.

This is a good place to stop and view the stream which has cut deeply into the foundation of Town Hill. Steep, jagged rocks are common along the stream and the adjacent slope pitches steeply to the east. Just upstream is Game Lands 49, but to gain access you will need to drive a short distance farther east on Silver Mills Road. Continue along the road back out of the valley for about 1.0 mile to a left hand turn onto a dirt road. (This road is not suitable for wet weather or winter travel.) Follow that road as it narrows and comes to a parking area and gate on the Game Lands. From this parking area, you can explore the woodlands on the west slope of Town Hill and walk down to Sideling Hill Creek. After visiting this area, backtrack out the dirt road to Silver Mills Road and turn left. Follow this road for 0.5 mile until it again reaches the bottom land with a field on the right (south). Note the cliffs on the left-hand side of the road. This is an example of an Appalachian shale barren locally known as Barnes Gap Barren. You will notice several characteristics of the barrens at this site. First, these cliffs face to the south or southwest. This means that the face of the steep cliff is consistently oriented toward the sun, and the surface is extremely dry. The plants, which inhabit shale barrens, have become adapted to these conditions much like plants of the desert.

One adaptation for plants in dry habitats is having thick succulent leaves to conserve water. Although relatively small, this barren harbors at least one of the plant species generally known from the barrens, and one which exhibits the adaptation of succulent leaves -- Allegheny stonecrop ( Sedum telephioides ). It can be found growing on the ledges, and in crevices throughout the Barnes Gap Barrens and, since it is not restricted to barrens, on other dry situations in this region. This species is distinguished by its succulent, elliptical light gray-green leaves on several tufted stems. The plant is familiar to gardeners since a related introduced species, European stonecrop ( Sedum puerperium ), has many of the same characteristics. Allegheny stonecrop blooms in August with white-to-light-pink flowers in a broad flattened head. You may see the plant scattered on these barrens, but, since this is private land, we suggest that you stay on the road and wait for the next stop to carefully examine the species.

Continue to follow the dirt road another 0.2 mile to its juncture with Rt. 484. At that point, turn left onto Rt. 484. The main stem of Sideling Hill is now to the right. Go 1.0 mile to Hixon Road, a dirt road to the right and follow it about 0.2 mile to where Conservancy property begins on the left. The road continues for a short distance to a ford across Sideling Hill Creek. Park here, being careful not to block the road or any adjacent lanes. At this point, you are at the base of Sideling Hill Creek Barrens, one the largest and best Appalachian shale barrens in the region.

Here you are on Conservancy property and access is permitted. Standing at the edge of Sideling Hill Creek at the ford, look downstream and you will see a large part of the central portion of the barrens. This community extends both up and downstream, covering nearly 50 acres. Much of the area is very steep and impossible for easy access. To get a close view with easy access, walk along the edge of the water downstream to the area where the steep cliffs touch the stream. This is typical of much of the barrens and you should be able to find several clumps of Allegheny stonecrop and Virginia spiderwort, another species found on the barrens as well as other dry sites. Shale barrens are restricted to the Appalachians from southcentral Pennsylvania south into Virginia and West Virginia. Most barrens are found on steep south-facing slopes where streams have undercut shale outcrops. Several species of special concern grow on these specialized habitats including Cat's paw ragwort ( Senecio antennariifolius - PA Endangered), which is endemic (found only in this specific habitat) to the barrens and exists at only four sites in Pennsylvania.

Just as the stonecrop adapted, the ragwort also has adjusted to the extreme heat and drought. The upper surfaces of the ragwort leaves are whitened to reflect the sun's heat. Dense hairs cover the lower surfaces of the leaves to insulate the plant, and the crowded rosette of leaves growing close to the ground protects the plant from the drying wind and intense heat reflected from the shale. Cat's paw ragwort is found on Sideling Hill Creek Barrens, but unfortunately it is in a isolated and rather dangerous location high on the slope and on a narrow ledge.

In addition to the rare plant species found at Sideling Hill Creek Natural Area, there are several invertebrate species of special concern, including packard's lichen moth ( Cisthene packardii ). As is often the case, specialized habitats harbor a variety of plants and animals that have acclimated to thrive in harsh environments.

The barrens and the species on them are not the only natural history items of interest at Sideling Hill Creek. In the stream itself, around the ford, golden club ( Orontium aquaticum ) emerges from the shallow waters. A visit in late May or early June will reveal the plant in bloom with its unique golden scape held above the surface of the water. This unusual plant is a relative of skunk cabbage but does not share its bad odor. Aside from the spectacular display when golden club is in bloom, the fact that a considerable colony continues to exist here and in other sections of Sideling Hill Creek is testimony to the cleanliness of the stream which is home to several other imperiled plants.

Just downstream of the Sideling Hill Creek Barrens, the stream flows out of Pennsylvania into Maryland and ultimately into the Potomac River. Within the Maryland sections are additional shale barrens and a globally rare plant -- harperella ( Ptilimnium nodosum ). This wilding grows in the rocky edges of the creek where sediments have accumulated. The plant depends on annual high water flows in the spring, and clean water uring the rest of the year. Although the plant does not grow in the Pennsylvania portions of Sideling Hill Creek, protection efforts in the upper portions of the watershed are critical to the overall health of the species downstream. If you would like to visit the lower sections of Sideling Hill Creek, contact the Natural Heritage Program, Forest, Park & Wildlife Service, Tawes State Office Bldg., B-2, Annapolis, Maryland 21401, (301) 974-2870.

After exploring Sideling Hill Creek Barrens, return to Rt. 484 via Hixon Road and turn left. Follow this back to the Barnes Gap Barrens intersection and bear left over Sideling Hill Creek. The road will go a short distance and rejoin Rt. 26. You have the option to turn right and follow Rt. 26 north back to Everett and the Pa. Turnpike, or go left (south) to Rt. 40 or Rt. 48 in Maryland. Rt. 40 is an older, more scenic road and Rt. 48 a four-lane expressway, but either can be followed west to the Uniontown/Morgantown W. Va. area.

Top photo courtesy of Pa DCNR. Bottom three photos from WPC archives.